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Simon Calder is in Dubai, but instead of looking at all the modern and flashy new buildings, he's at the heart of traditional Dubai, Dubai Creek.
By Simon Calder
I like to think I first experienced Dubai in version 1.0: back in the early 1990s, several lifetimes ago given the extraordinary pace of change in this ever-vibrant Emirate. I have returned many times since then, and marvelled at the way that the city keeps expanding and the skyline gets taller by the day. Yet I always find myself drawn back to Dubai Creek - the curving S of deep blue water that cuts through the heart of the city. This is where Dubai began, as a trading outpost on the Gulf, and somehow it has retained its character. From the Heritage Centre to the souk, you can wander beside the water and watch the constant activity on the Creek. You can also learn a great deal about the history of Dubai, thanks to an array of low-key attractions designed to spur your interest subtly in Arabic life. Continue further south, and you will encounter the Bastakiah Quarter, full of the former homes of Persian merchants who guided the development of Dubai over the centuries. But that's for another film on another trip, by which time the city will have changed its look yet again ...
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